They are Everbilt Part Number 368310. What's the technique for torquing down the nut on the new one? Sway bar links are nothing but a bridge that holds the sway bar attached on both sides of the suspension. Note: On the original OEM "bolt" end link, there is a little part that is square between the sway bar and lower control arm that you put the 10 mm box wrench on. Nonetheless, despite the picture being wrong, Dan says he hasn't heard reports of his kit being the wrong size (which we know to be the case with both the typical Prothane and Energy Suspension kits). Any ideas how to tighten the lower links? It is not that difficult to change sway bar links. I use the Allen wrench/box wrench combo on mine and it tightens it just fine. I'm using TTT arms front rear, TTT tension rods, and Stance coilovers with camber plates all around. I had to go to a shop. Turns out they have a big barrell of the lube, and they do use exactly what's in the picture, even though the bushings aren't from Energy Suspension. Is Driving With Bad Sway Bar Links Dangerous? It is recommended to perform a wheel alignment after replacing the sway bar links on a Hyundai.
Given that "my" swaybar midpoint was 1. We explained how a sway bar is responsible for leveling out a car when going through tight corners. Way different then the ones I took looking at RockAutos selection to see if your part# matches the ones they show for the year/model of your truck. Disconnect the sway bar links. Open Wrench Metric Set. Go look inside of that nut you are trying to tighten and you will see what I mean. I got these from Home Depot. Adjust the length of the non-attached end link so it easily slips into sway bar without tension. Because we don't want the sway bar acting from one side of the car to the other until we are in a corner, that means we want the sway bar in static form — while going straight down the road — not to have any tension. After I delivered the requisite profanity laced lecture directed at said vehicle, I got out my reciprocating saw (Sawzall) and cut off the top stud. Both of my front endlinks broke when I tried to take them out, too, but neither of my rear endlinks did. 5118R kit may make sense. The kit with black bushings is part number 9.
I upgraded mine but went with Prothane instead of the moog, I didn't want the same as oem with a different name stamp on them.... Don't forget on those that you must have a wrench to hold the main stem or it will just spin and never get tight.... They are also different on the left and the right side of the car which means they are also not interchangeable in that manner. Without any spacer, the lower control arm and the sway bar are closer together than OEM. Can Bad Sway Bar Links Cause Steering Wheel Vibration? This is a good time to pump a squirt or two of grease into them. Most times you are throwing the old part away anyway. Removing the wheel is recommended for better access. Engine: L03 (want LS1). When tightening up the replacement, make certain the car is loaded, meaning the suspension isn't "hanging", but as it would sit on the ground, e. g. on ramps, ride on lift, or even jack up under both control arms. Most common signs that your Hyundai sway bar links are bad include: - Clunks. I hadn't noticed anything wrong before doing that either, but I did notice an improvement.
This includes the same bushings and washers as the kit I bought plus the bolts (I think 4. I tried for like 30 minutes and couldn't get it aligned. Once the top end of the link was freed up, I just pulled the link off the bottom stud. I used a 4 inch C-clamp (top on the top of the flat part of the sway bar) and bottom (part that moves up and down) under the lower control arm. 07-03-2013 08:37 PM. I have been doing maintenance on the truck since I got it. The steering will feel different, the car will start leaning more, floating and rolling around corners. However, everyone who had used this kit (based on the older threads) had suggested they didn't really work for the Scion xB (I can't say for a fact whether Energy Suspension changed the kit over the years but I think it is still the same part number as people were using years ago which didn't work). If you have to ratchet strap it the way it is now then you'll clearly have too much tension on the links and they'll just break again. 06-09-2015 06:37 AM. Thus, most people who bought the kit purchased their own bolts and most simply didn't use the spacer, so there is no reason to pay more for that kit.
My recent thread is here: Found this greasy rubber part under my 4Runner (makes noise now). Install the new sway bar links. Its design is very simple and started appearing on passenger cars after the second world war as car suspension became much softer and prone to body roll and swaying. I read through a few long forum posts on Scion websites, watched some Youtube! This is far from the truth and you should never opt it for the cheap sway bar links. All the parts (before they are compressed) will barely fit between the sway bar and the lower control arm with the spacer. So that all the relevant information is in one spot, I will update the current thread with any updates that Dan provides me. You don't want an added unneeded spring in your suspension connecting one side of the independent suspension to the other.
04-27-2015 01:27 PM. 0 mm OD respectively for the sway bar and endlink midpoint diameters (which correspond perfectly to the 0. Once that is complete, then follow these instructions to adjust your end links prior to reconnecting your sway bars.