I would buy new OEM bushings, take out the arms myself, and probably take them to a shop to have them install, labor charge should be less than an hour that way. In my opinion, replacing the whole arms for worn out bushings is a waste of money. Tires are balanced with new brakes and rotors. 3rd gen 4runner lower control arms for polaris sportsman. Don't have my links handy, but they should be pretty easy to find by searching for lower control arm or something like that. I'm guessing front since you mentioned front suspension parts in your original post.
I also don't see how it's a 7 hour job either. So you likely need new bushings, not new arms. Despite shops being good or not, they hustle to get their money. Are we talking front or rear lower control arms here??
Thanks for any help yall can give, especially if you have done this before yourself! Down the rabbit hole I went. I have been wondering the same thing. I've heard the bushings are somewhat difficult to press out and in, but I haven't done it myself. 25in wheel spacers, front sway bar links, ES sway bushings Other stuff: 1/2" body lift, B&M tranny cooler, extended rear diff breather, deckplate, blue-wire mod, ARB Tacoma BullBar, Smittybuilt XRC8 winch, 285/75/16's. Will be doing this in the near future as well. The shop that told me estimated 350 in parts for each side plus 85 dollars an hour for labor for 7 hours. They arent like most shops i have seen. The shop i go to told me the hole arm needs to be replaced, they must be bent or something. 3rd gen 4runner lower control arms 72 chevelle. It's a scare tactic. The bushings wear out... Do I need to change the entire LCA or just the bushings? I have a slight steering wheel vibration/shimmy around 70mph.
As the others talked about above, unless your LCA is damaged or bent, should just need to do the bushings. I have the same alignment problem, and will be replacing all ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and lower control arms in one swoop. 3rd gen 4runner lower control arts centre. There are some good writeups out there. Yes you will need an alignment. There should only be 4 things to remove IIRC: 1) lower shock bolt, 2) front cam bolt, 3) rear cam bolt, and 4) lower ball joint.
If they think it's bent or damaged ask for them to show you the proof they found to make that call. "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. Do I need to buy bushings seperate? Put your new bushings in the freezer for a few days before install. You would only need to replace the arms if they've received some type of impact damage or they have been compromised by rust. And after my inner tie rod i got an allignment not knowing i had this lower control arm problem as well, and I think I need to get in alligned again after i do these!!! Unless it's corroded or rusted out you most likely just need need bushings. You might not get any responses from the OP since the post is from 2013, but I have done my front control arm bushings using write ups from here, pretty easy actually. What problems are you having?
Top plate spacer, Light Racing/SPC UCA's, 1. And I have on the subject. Control arms don't go bad unless they are damaged from an impact (very difficult even for an impact to damage them) or maybe very rusted. Or the ones i have might still be fine and I just need to replace the control arm. I got started down this road by looking at replacing tie rod ends. Here's the two videos. 25in wheel spacers, sway end links from 2nd gen rear Rear: Toytec Superflex, 05'+ Tacoma Bilstein 5100's, extended bump stops, extended brake line, e-brake strain relief bracket, 1. '99 Limited, Millennium Silver, E-Locker Front: '99 Tall Springs, Tundra Bilstein 5100's @ 5th perch, 3/8 in. Any suggestions on certain brands that may be more durable than others? It came out to around 1350, that seems outrageous i think i can do it myself for like 400.
This is my last issue i have, i have been doing alot of maintenance lately, i had to replace my valve seals, my rear axle differential seals, all my brakes and my inner tie rod. I trust them they are a very good shop and usually reasonable with there prices, last time i went there they estimated 860 and called me while they were working on it and said they didnt need a part they thought they needed which cut the price in half, so i definately trust them. Dealerships do this all the time. People go in for an oil change, and end up spending $300 on some new random parts the techs claimed were bad.
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