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I "painted" the resin on the surfboard nose with a paintbrush, making sure to fully soak the fiberglass cloth, and get into all the nooks of the cracked nose. If the nose of my board is screwed up, it throws me off and my whole vibe is ruined. If your fin box is dinged, this usually looks like a crack around the box that holds the fin in. Step 8: Lastly, wetsand the repaired area using a high grit sandpaper (200+) and let cure for at least 24 hrs. After letting the resin cure for about 5 hours, it was sanding time again. How to repair a soft top surfboard. In this Instructable learn how to repair a surfboard.
Instead of patching just the area where there was an issue, I decided to fiberglass the whole front of the board so the strength would be evenly distributed. Rubbing compound is too coarse. Acetone will remove the wax, but it may also remove the board's top coat and art work if the board was clear coated, which is common for production boards. Surfboard Ding Repair - It's Easier Than You Think. Tape up all the way around the patch with good quality masking tape. Touch-up any missing/damaged paint or pin-lines.
Depending on the damage, how you go about the repair may differ but the techniques and steps will be similar to what is show in this Instructable. The first grit (120) is the toughest of all stages in the sanding process, as you are using the most muscle and removing the most material. This is probably the most difficult method to master, but will get you good results if you have the patience to practice. You press on it and it's slightly satisfying, but then you snap out of it and are horrified to realize that something is seriously wrong with your surfboard. How to sand surfboard repair shops. Basically, you are just cutting tabs in the section of cloth that will make the tight rail wrap, and you laminate each tab down one at a time with one tab overlapping another. For starters, lets summarize the steps involved for most small repairs. PapaWoolacombe wrote:miamisurfer wrote:After it hardens you want to get it smooth.
If you pull off the masking tape after gel, but before the resin sets up hard, it will save you from the possibility of having to sand off masking tape (which clogs up sandpaper very quickly). For suncure on a surf trip you can call it if it looks watertight and well covered. Next thing you know you're under the water and didn't make the wave all because of that ugly nose. Work section by section, and don't forget the rails. I start with 150 grit and work my way up to wet sanding with 500 grit. Of mixed material per foot of surfboard length. How to repair foam surfboard. However, since the board was yellow and I didn't have any yellow tint, I just reused the cut outs. It helps to mark each spot with a piece of masking tape and arrows pointing to each suspect area if you are fixing multiple dings at the same time.
Apply to whole damaged area with mixing stick or cheap paint brush. There are many grades of both types of resins. Step 4: Cutting Out the Area to Be Repaired. You can also save money in another way. Fiberglass Cloth (4oz was used but 6oz would work too). By PapaW » Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:16 pm. I don't spend quite as much time on the top deck since it gets covered with wax anyway. Is it Polyurethane Foam or Expanded Polystyrene - PU or EPS Foam? 4 Ways to Repair Surfboard Damage on Your Own –. This is usually a perpendicular line only on one side of the stringer. Some tape was applied to keep the epoxy off the parts of the board that were not being repaired. Most glossers start with 320 grit and remove the shiny surface first (don't worry, it will come back). This "old school" method requires the same border-tape preparation as the Posca method, but instead of using a paint pen, you use opaque acrylic paste from a squeeze tube and lay a thin layer of this paste in your pinline area and smooth it over with a gloved-finger. Now that I'm listing all these I'm realizing most dings are important to a board's performance and need to be fixed with scrutiny.
It usually takes two passes with mineral spirits, changing to fresh rags in between, and then a good buffing with a third clean dry rag. Adding a fiberglass patch or the repair area. You may have a thin line along your rail formed from your tape barrier during the hot coat stage. No need to hand-compound at this stage. It won't win any beauty contests, but I'll bet this board will give many more seasons of good surfing. How to DIY Surfboard Ding Repair. Just saturate the cloth patches to the board. Ideally, if your ding is close to a rail, you can push the resin off the rail and let it drip on to the floor.
Once you have sanded away the shine, you need to work your way up with progressively higher grits of sandpaper. Roughing up the smooth surface helps the new resin adhere to the surfboard. Step 2: Fill the Ding. Stir again and then apply on the dinged area. The following pictures show the patch being laminated and then after if has been squeezied. If you are repairing a ding you probably will not be gluing in an existing piece of of the surfboard like the previous step but you will need to add some fiberglass cloth to the damaged area. For small patches, I just wet them in.
Head to section B. Delamination or Delam. You may also want to start wet-sanding at this stage. But even then, you're at risk of delamming your board - or at least melting that sick wax job all over your seats. The patches came out very well and the board feels solid and strong again. If you only sanded your board to 120 grit and plan on adding a gloss coat, then you should take the time now to sand the pinline area down to 220 or 320 grit before you begin laying tape for the pinlines. Add another layer of resin with a few extra drops of catalyst added to the mixture. Cleaned with acetone, and hit it with a final coat of resin (no pigment in this one). Some interesting stuff. They're very important to a board's performance and usually fragile. These brushes are cheap for a reason and you don't want a loose strand in your finished ding.
For larger patches, I use a plastic squeezy to draw off excess resin and seat the patch firmly to the board. Anywho, if you buckled or creased your board. Do not try this on a cloudy day, because the resin will not cure, and you will be left with a gooey mess). It isn't hard, but it takes time, perhaps 2 or even 3 hours total just to fix a medium sized ding.
Mix up some more epoxy and using a cheap bristle brush, brush the epoxy over the repair area, making sure to cover all of the fiberglass patch. Prop it up so that the dinged area is down and draining. Step 5: Once cured, sand down your fiberglass patch. I don't know if you would call this a "ding", but I'm going to include it here anyways. That sinking feeling you get in your stomach when your quiver takes some damage is the worst, but no more! Also, in order to sand polyester resin, you must add a wax surfacing agent. Now that the area is clean and sanded, surfboard repair will be more effective because the resin mixture will bond easily. You don't want to mix that up, but many novice surfers doing their own repairs do just that. One day you pick up your board and there's a big bubble on the deck.
If it's a fairly new ding, wait for the board to dry so you don't have to remove much. WTF, why's my board looking like that? The first is a Pressure Ding. If you are making a longboard, tinted board, or opaque pigmented board, the colors will really pop when they are glossed and polished. If you are just using regular cloth backed sandpaper on your sanding discs, you need to cut the paper in the circular shape with scissors, and some temporary adhesive spray (3M Super 77) so stick the paper to the sanding pad. Be sure to look up a resin to catalyst mix chart - this is the one I use (Link). I cut a small piece of fiberglass cloth (with relief cuts) to go over the exposed foam. A buckle is when the stringer is partially broken. Step 6: Apply the "heated" resin to the glass with a paintbrush, take your time to make sure the cloth lays flat and the resin absorbs into the glass. You can use your mixing stick to poke at the filler to try and work-out any trapped air. Once the compound is buffed off, hand-wipe the entire board with a microfiber cloth to remove any compound residue before you start the polishing stage. For a gloss finish, consider using a polisher and some diamond cut compound to get that shine your looking for. If you don't plan to do a gloss coat, then your next step is to deal with any Burn Throughs and then Fine Sand your hot-coat.
This is where you're going to use the wax comb in order to remove any remaining wax. Then we will move on to repair techniques for small area delamination. Plastic Yogurt Containers.