I'm currently dealing with a starter/starter solenoid issue with my dad's lawn mower. I have replaced my relay/solenoid once.... 7 years ago though! I bought an ignition swt. I know it needs to be a certain dimension. Nearly every time I start the mower, the starter stays engaged even when I turn the key to the off position. Note, wires were wrapped inside a larger diameter, 2" long section of vacuum hose and sealed so metal edges from drilled hole in floor would not wear the wires through. Not sure if you got this squared away, but I thought I might let ya know that I just went through this with someone's mastercraft.. Ct1500 wrote:Starter relay "A" to the right side of battery needs replacing. Starter stays engaged with key off power. I read a thread on here from '05 about this problem on the 351's, but there was no conclusion to why this is happening.. can someone please explain this to me and tell me what I need to do!.
I assume your secondaries are opening? Had a windsor that used more oil than gas but could not kill the FMX Tranny, I sure tried. Then only thing I can think of is if when we cranked on it so long to get it to fire after the new distributor, maybe we did a little damage to the solenoid? For the white/red wire going to the ERG counter circuit and then on to the seat belt monitoring circuit the connection might be in the harness multipin connector into which the starter switch plug connects. If the circuit has not yet completely failed, you may hear a clicking noise as you try to turn the key. Let me know about that battery size. Starter keeps turning even when key is in off position. If I cut the electric off at the master switch then the starter disengages and the diesel motor continues to run. Or the starter switch with the ignition off. Hopefully that will fix my starter issue though! Location: United States. Check to make sure the start relay is in fact de energizing for those few seconds before you mess with the ignition switch. I got another solenoid, but it is a different design than what came on the boat originally.
Location: Lexington, NC. It appears to try to continue starting the engine for about 1 sec. Dropping the handbrake (assuming the switch works) should stop it, or turning the key off. It's a 1995 Johnson 90 HP.
If you notice these warning signs, make sure you contact a local ASE certified mechanic to completely inspect your vehicle as these symptoms might indicate problems with other components. The starter stayed engaged and I was unable to turn off the motor, although turning the ignition back to off, the starter stayed on. Starter stays engaged with key off youtube. Most of today's modern cars and trucks have an electronic ignition switch that is activated by remote key. What would make the starter stayed engaged? Although it's unlikely that you'll ever experience a problem with the starter relay, it is prone to mechanical failure and will need to be replaced by a professional mechanic if it wears out. Really don't think so.
Sorry for being late on the update, but there is no update. I guess you could buy the oem version to help you sleep better. Cannot see how starter motor engagement could be the problem. Location: Lawton, OK. This corrosion will reduce voltage going to the solenoid or starter and the real problem occurs on the ground side. The boat was running fine for the first 20 minutes. Starter stays engaged. I did the sw. 'while I was at it.
This key has an electronic chip embedded that links up with the computer on your vehicle and allows the ignition button to activate. The starter relay is a very durable and reliable mechanical part, however it is possible for damage to occur requiring a mechanic to replace the starter relay. Thanks, Could post a pic of the switch you disconnected? A buddy works for Ford so he is going to snag one for me tonight.
I replaced the clutch master and had the pedal box out. By this time the battery was almost dead. The description is throwing me off, switch assy? Based on these brief description above, I am thinking I will need a new starter soon. Location: Three Lakes Wi. You'll need the one further back from the front of the truck. Ive also read that if the starter and flexplate arent lubed up then that could cause the issue as well as the starter being torqued too tightly. Location: Tennessee. If that solenoid is engaged that motor is spinning, even if the key is no longer in "start". I ran to the tool box and grabbed a wrench and disconnected the battery. Back in the day when I had my blue '75, I replaced the positive and negative cables with ones that were CLEAR and you could see the copper inside, and I really wish I had owned the car long enough to see them corrode and know it was time to replace them, and I wish they still made them but I can't find them anywhere. I can pick up a battery here at work and give it a shot this weekend. It's the small wire from the ignition switch or the "S" terminal on the switch itself. Is there a switch on the clutch that is connected to the ignition switch somehow or is it all mechanical?
He can can cook can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. "Morfoot; He can ski. Relay frying shut with the ignition off is how the starter is connected to the battery bypassing the ignition. In either case, you should contact a professional mechanic to inspect the symptom and correctly diagnose the precise cause. Ive had this problem did it again. As a registered member, you'll be able to: - Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics. The high current wire goes from the battery to the starter motor.
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold). I think we are at 34 right now and debating about going to 36. With my 12v test I tested the white / red tracer wire at the starter relay and found (with the red/white wire attached to the relay) after turning the ignition key to start and releasing to run I had a dim bulb at the white / red wire leading me to believe enough voltage was bleeding into the circuit to keep the starter relay engaged. The ignition switch was slightly erratic in the run position anyway so I purchased a new (electric portion only) aftermarket ignition switch (and relay just because Moss Motors is a week away. ) I need you and Alan to take a "joy ride" with me at GL.
1979 Ski Nautique (sold). Anyone else have this problem? I ordered another one, test it with a multimeter, and believe it or not that one was bad as well. Location: South Lanier. So I don't know if my last message posted... On newer Ford trucks, there are two relays that look similar along the passenger side fender. I may have gotten distracted So I ohmed out both relays A and B at the heavy wire post. Thanks, Last edited: It takes a big hole to bury an elephant. Some of those wires are all wrapped together in a harness and much to hard to reach to hunt for one wire.
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