I keep telling myself all I need is a few good runs and keep it dialed in close to the ground to gain confidence back. We re-sub framed the car and frame and added a new engine combo so we have to start all over. The front ladder bar brackets were used to mark the subframe. The more power you have the more forward and low the weight has to be. If there's more, it places excessive loads on the wheelie bars. This will square things back up, and my new brackets wrap further around the rear end so it shouldn't happen again. 2 degree measurement is from the flat on the yoke to the drive shaft. And that's the primary target we're aiming for here. Chassis squat and pitch rotation also move long wheelie bars closer to the ground, increasing the static height setting requirement. The rear-end naturally wants to plant the left tire harder.. A poor mans ways is to jack the rear-end up with a socket between the jack and rear for a pivot usually which ever side is hanging lower has more pre-load on the jack is good and centered.. SC/Hurst Rambler. If you run a high amount of wedge then level may be a better idea. And "rebound" & "extension" mean or describe the same thing/action (extending the shock). With our Toyo 9-inch slicks mounted to 15×10 Centerline "Fuel" drag wheels, we had about an inch of clearance on either side (stock frame rail to the outer wheel well lip).
Olso, the car is Lower on the left side today, and the rear spring is longer on the rear left side. Location: Ga. Posts: 520. Using trailing arm brackets with multiple trailing are mounting holes gives you additional adjustment options. In the old days I remember seeing 4 to 6 foot plus ladders under drag cars. Consequently, you need to change your wheelie bar settings to work with different wheelbases. The ladder bar crossmember was held in the car with jack stands and the position of the mounts were set. If you tune a car with a 95-inch wheelbase and you switch to a car with a 110-inch wheelbase, you'll find the wheelie bar settings are far different.
If it's just enough to fully extend the suspension and pull the tires from the racing surface, that's your optimum weight transfer. I prefer low amounts of wedge in an asphalt late model and most of the races that landed my teams in victory lane had 49% to 53% of diagonal. Wheelie bars set too low can cause the chassis to "unload". Makes alot of sence. Keeping these measurements on hand will allow you to make track changes with the confidence that you are maintaining a square rear end setting. But a lower bar angle/lower instant center might also sometimes make the wheelstand climb higher IF the car is (at the same time) also still dead-hooked. Like the 4-link, ladder bars use a coil-over shock to support the weight of the vehicle. I think the tires could use some more air in them. But here you can clearly see the car goes to the right. 56 gears with ladder bars and coil overs. The bars connect to the chassis and rear via rod ends that bolt to plates with 8-12 potential mounting points, providing quite a few tuning options. Hey, sometimes you miss the setup and it is what it is. Adjusting the anti-squat for your car, driver and track can maximize exit grip getting your team to the finish line first. You'll often see professional crew chiefs watch cars ahead of them in the staging lanes.
VET, CPT, Huey Medevac Pilot. With the proper spring rates, you can have equal rear tire loading for any value of driveshaft torque. Does anyone know of a good place online where I can print a "setting up your ladder bar suspension for dummies" type guide that will help me get it close enough to take it to the track and fine tune it? Joespanova: You may want to modify the lower rear section of your ladder bar to make it adjustable. The shocks were bolted to the lower shock mount using the supplied hardware and spacers. The car acting like it's loading and unloading but as soon as I hit high gear it quits and starts pulling really hard. My question is how do I get the bounce out of the car? If the cars weight is more on the left side, shold I compensate this on the front springs, so that I have the same amout of weight on the rear? A better a ladder bar to use a higher rate spring at the right front than at the left front. Assembling the shocks was a little tricky. Or are you calculating the difference between the two?
In the middle of the three is the ladder bar. As far as adding nose weight causing a loss of consistency goes just remember that we are talking about making small increases in nose weight from pass to pass during testing (think "fine tuning", say in 5 lb increments), vs throwing a bunch of weight on the nose all at once. That being the case I will try that if not then I'm confused as to why. As the housing moves left the RR trailing arm gets longer and pushes the RR tire back producing rear steer that will help the car turn. There is much debate on this but I like to have a little anti-squat in the car to promote bite under acceleration. We set the ride height to the center position, so we had some adjustment room. There are those who say that an ARB is not needed on a ladder car. I can not adjust the chocks. "The longer wheelie bars are, the higher the static setting must be. With our rear ride height of 10-inches and the shock mounted in the middle of the shock mount, the top of the shock mount was above the stock floor. When you tighten the front it loads the rear tires harder at the hit so I'd bet your bouncing them loose. Dave De wrote:Curt, So are you saying that your pinion angle is 2° to the earth, or your pinion angle is 1° to the earth and your tailshaft angle is 3°?
You tighten that up to limit the hit on the tire. I actually have a 68 camaro it weights 2760 with me in the car. TU: However... now I'll have to start from scratch (regarding adjustments) when setting the rear end in the car. Excessive amounts can cause a loose in condition or wheel hop. I looked at my bars and they are in the middle hole.... i have 2 more higher up and 2 below. With traction the weight (force) will transfer through an angled inertia effect and tend to compress the suspension if there is more weight on top of this line, if there is more weight on the bottom of this line the suspension will be allowed to separate because there is not enough weight (force) to stop it from doing so. When it comes to trailing arms I try to avoid linkage arrangements that go though center under roll. The engine is either too high, too far back, etc. We had to use a set of spring compressors to get the upper retainer in place, even with the lower retainer threaded all the way down. I would add air to the tire if I was looking to unhook it some. The most common setup is a dual wheel axle mount. If you want to stop the dead hooking go up on the tire psi and tighten the extension on the rear shocks.