Location: ON, Canada. I have tried putting the car into gear, then spinning the driveshaft all the way around about 100 times now. Why does a drive shaft go bad. When removing the driveshaft, it slipped forward fine so that I could drop it from the rearend. I'm also having trouble removing the bolt that holds the front and rear sections of the driveshaft off (9 and 10 in the realoem diagram) or as seen here: I've tried wacking my wrench with a hammer and can't get it; the carrier bushing just absorbs the impact:/ I haven't tried removing the bolt with the shaft off of the car, I imagine it would be more difficult? It was coming from the differential so took it apart and found that the modified torque tube supplied with the overdrive transmission had a counterbore on the surface facing the banjo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Images (Click to enlarge). It came out so easily. And suspension were all good with no sign of wear or repair. Please help!! I can't get my driveshaft back in. So the Cavanaugh Flight Museum in Dallas has a very nice A2 and so I compared their transfer yoke gap and found theirs is about 3/8". Total cost: $20 Total time: 15 minutes. I could have them do both, but as I've done it before I didn't think it'd be too hard. I see you said you have a 's most of the problem.
With luck, stiction and congealed oil will hold it in place while you refit the shaft. Surely not enough to be able to hold the shaft up there and pull the yoke out to it. For some reason--probably incident to age--I didn't have the torque tube in place in my mind. Can you see into the trans, is something stuck in there? If it doesn't line up right you need to find out why before trying to force things. Since the new yoke is 3" longer, it will engage the rest of the spline and should not slip off again (which was the original problem). Did all the other bolts come apart easily? Did you attached the puller to the end of the driveshaft or had your removed the driveshaft already and attached it to the 6 inch long flange? M151A2 1973 In Progress. Removing drive shaft. The first time I attached the slide-hammer wasn't the best, and it came loose, causing me to smash the #$%& out of my hand. That little spring which was in the got jammed into the housing (probably when i tried putting it back together not knowing/realizing my seal was bad) and thats what was stopping the driveshaft. But I guess I'll go to the shop with the attitude and see if they can do it without being jerks. How deeply is the oil seal seated in its housing? However, it did start dipping slowly.
Used a come-along and put a lot of pressure to see if it would move, no movement at all. Post your own photos in our Members Gallery. Still, I'm positive that I did the diff swap without needing to drop the driveshaft or disconnect anything apart from its connection to the diff. Can't get driveshaft back in men. Front output shaft seal was unknowingly leaking and now the case is toast. Well everything I have tried has not moved anything to change the gap. You then pull it back out 1".
I have this weird belief that parts are supposed to fit together and shouldn't require much more force than to overcome their weight. Dave sent a replacement torque tube and the problem was solved. Transmission: T-5 Conversion. They should not come loose or need locktite. With someone helping You Line up the Front Splines, push the Jack Forward, you may have to turn a Drum to get the Splines lined up. With a little wiggling I've had a spline shaft just slide easily right in. Same tailshaft output & same deiveshft yoke? Good effort in getting it done, when you've finished could you write it all down so I can follow it if I ever decide to do the job on my focus, it sounds like it may need it soon. The spring holds tension on the shaft sealing the tail of the transmission. If any one of these is not connected, this allows either of the other two to spin freely. Can't get driveshaft back in chrome. I think tomorrow I am going to take it to a Transmission a shop that will look at it for me (EZ since it's out of the car already) for no charge. Bear this "Glitch" in mind for your next one. Tried four letter words!!!
Thanks for all the help. In reply to Sharp: It might be ok. Yea I will definitely be getting back under there tomorrow and struggle with it for a few hours. Once you've done this and also removed the three bolts holding in the diff along with removing the half shafts from the diff, the diff should be able to be pulled right off of the drive shaft with a little coaxing. I took it to the shop (Collin County something) on 380. How much splines does it engage when it bottoms out? Jazz jr and WMj nailed it! Parted the car out and never had an answer. You can pry them out another way, but if your not careful you can scratch the seal lip and that might cause it to leak. So I'm going to try and remove and grease the rear drive shaft splines this weekend (PB Blast-her tonight).
I would have to look at my spare and see how it is located on the frame. Aka my husband, lol). I will look at loosening the engine & trans mounts and see if I can get any movement. As long as you didn't get any dirt into the grease you may be ok. It's MUCH easier on the ground, because you have to kind of bend the shaft the right way to get the wrench in there. 45 Chevy G7107 SOLD. The new one can be tapped in with a small hammer, just go around it and tap lightly. Last edited by Jazzjr; 11-19-2011 at 11:12 AM.
It won't travel past the splines at all. One dealership we gave them permission to cut and put it in. When I removed that piece, and tried to put my driveshaft in, it won't go. But I'd also like to replace them as they look pretty old and worn.
It reaches a stopping point about 3/4" from "home". I keep a spare yoke with the driveshaft removed from it as a protective device. The gear will line up either way but the shoulder must go to the rear and not the front. Well, I did remove the cap and seal, just not in that picture. I pulled it apart with another truck! There are not special tools but most mechanics use long extensions and can get to it from further back in the vehicle. This because I just had my clutch replaced just 2 months ago. I found the part - Spicer 1280-1310-1410,. Back in the day, I dont know when GM started this practice. 1996 Toyota Tacoma SR5 4x4. 5. is there anything stuck in the yoke?
02 doublehump heads. Took me about an hour and one snapped socket to get the one holding the shock off! It's what you know that isn't so. Location: S. W. Chicago, IL. I took my video camera and taped some footage of the inside of the transmission shaft, and nothing looks out of the ordinary, so it's a full fledged mystery for sure. Location: Chasing Electrons. That seal is pretty much useless without it. Does any one know any tricks as to how to re-install the driveshaft on a VL800. Location: new britain, ct 06052. I have done it with good results. I wouldn't heat it up because you might melt the rubber in the carrier brg that is supporting that end of the shaft. It went together and was driven several thousand miles and there was some damage to the roller bearings in the front input shaft plus it had a clutch chatter.
Jobs Glenbrittle Campsite Wardens & Cuillin Coffee Café Baristas. Well, except for my knuckles. The U-joint from the Transmission? Anybody know if a transmission shop will repair it if I've done something to the spline? Its weird because I had a driveshaft end slid into it to prevent fluid leaking, and it slid in all the way.