On older cars, the vacuum that is used is port vacuum, which is just above the throttle plate. I don't need to solve this, just curious…. Sometimes, misfiring may not be caused by a total loss of spark but by incorrect sparking or by high-voltage electrical leaks. I'd just check the voltage at the coil (with the coil grounded there should be 12VDC), check the impedence of the coil, and…whether those check good or not…chenge the points & condensor, all the ignition wires, and the sparkplugs. What would cause an ignition coil not to spark? OK, we have 12V on the + side of the coil, 6v on the -ve side of the coil (measured from the terminal to the engine block with a multimeter) with the key in the "run" position, There is no spark at the king lead. Grab a service manual and read up on how to set them properly. Power to coil but no spark | Retro Rides. Many people mistakenly believe that the voltage goes up because of the turns ratio between the primary windings and the secondary windings in the coil, but that is not true. The coil secondary winding circuit contains 15, 000 to 30, 000 turns of fine copper wire, which also must be insulated from each other. When you remove the distributor cap from the top of the distributor, you will see the points and condenser. Alternatively, it could be a bad ignition module. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins. Additionally, double-check each spark plug wire, looking for a loose connection at the spark plug cap.
How to Troubleshoot a 12 Volt Coil Where There Is No Spark? What sends the spark to the spark plug? Misfiring is a common drivability problem that may take some time to diagnose, depending on the cause. Ignition Systems A Short Course | CarParts.com. Look for cuts or scorch marks on the wire or on the insulation. These cables are designed to handle 20, 000 to more than 50, 000 volts, enough voltage to toss you across the room if you were to be exposed to it. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.
Hi there, The - on the coil does not work as a typical ground like you would see on a 12 volt battery - of the coil was connected to the distributor base. I will go through all wiring for ignition and clean and replace where necessary. Once the engine starts, the switch is released to the "run" position. 4) Expected Resistance: Many manufacturers indicate variations in the acceptable range, but in most cases, resistance will fall between 0. In the electronic ignition system, the points and condenser were replaced by electronics. Secondary spark conductors must have entire circuits with correct connections and insulation to provide a constant flow of electricity. Step 3: Mark the location of the distributor cap: Once you've inspected the outside portion of the distributor cap, the next step will be to remove the distributor cap. 12 volts to coil but no spark wiring. HELP - No Spark from the coil, stinger system. Will cam sensor cause no spark?
On some engines, the right bank is 1, 2, 3, 4 while the left bank is 5, 6, 7, 8. So the cylinders on the left side of the engine are numbered 1, 3, 5, 7 while the right side are numbered 2, 4, 6, 8. Newer automobiles have evolved from a mechanical system (distributor) to a completely solid state electronic system with no moving parts. During the tune up, points, condenser, and the spark plugs are replaced, the timing is set and the carburetor is adjusted. They used to sell a points file but haven't seen one of those in years. Ignition coil good but no spark. The condenser is a simple capacitor that can store a small amount of current. It has no spark though it cranks just fine. On many General Motors engines, the control module was inside the distributor and the coil was mounted on top of the distributor for a one piece unitized ignition system. Step 7: Check the distributor for proper alignment: There are some instances where the distributor itself will become loose, which will impact the ignition timing.
The ignition system sends an extremely high voltage to the spark plug in each cylinder when the piston is at the top of its compression stroke. Gently drag the screwdriver down the length of each spark plug wire, around the coil, and the boots. To correct this problem, the spark plug wires would have to be replaced. There are three specific components inside the distributor that may cause a lack of spark at the end of the spark plug to appear. The coil wire goes from the coil directly to the center of the distributor cap. 4.3 no spark voltage at coil drops from 12.6 to 2 volts or less while cranking | Page 2. 49 being about normal. 2: Battery fully charged and terminals clean.
Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don't, as I've read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not. 12 volts to coil but no spark near me. Now, back to the ignition system. Rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it). Look at these parts and check whether the electrified coil is damaged. If you simply replace the fuse, there is a good chance it will happen again in future.
A typical 6 cylinder engine has 3 coils that are mounted together in a coil "pack". So before we dive into the things you can check, let's first test to make sure your motorcycle has no spark. However, any number of reasons could be causing the issue. The coil still receives voltage, but the amount may be reduced by a resistor in the "run" circuit. Each spark plug in a contemporary car's direct-ignition system sits atop a coil cluster. Step 5: Inspect the rotor: The rotor is the long piece in the center of the distributor. The description I just provided is the simplified version, but should be helpful to visualize the process, but we left out a few things that make up this type of ignition system. Some riders decide to by-pass their safety switches. Therefore, when diagnosing a "no spark" problem, it is essential to rule out any possibility of an open circuit, including faulty ground connections. If any battery cable feels "Crunchy" when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Then, have someone crank the engine and look for a spark. Still no luck, well then you need to replace it. Yes, if the points are open and/or the electronic module is NOT CLOSED then you will measure battery voltage on both the coil (+) and coil(-) terminals.
This should read between 0. Any quick things I should try? I strongly recommend using. Since the spark is triggered at the exact instant that the points begin to open, rotating the distributor body (which the points are mounted on) will change the relationship between the position of the points and the position of the distributor cam, which is on the shaft that is geared to the engine rotation. The basic principle of the electrical spark ignition system has not changed for over 75 years. The distributor cap is a good starting point. Lift the lid and look for signs of wear and tear on the interior and exterior. It can be difficult to identify the cause of the misfiring, especially if the misfiring occurs only in certain conditions. If there's 12 volt at the CDI from #4 above, then the issue has to be between the CDI and the coil. Make yourself a cup of tea and clear your schedule. Let's take a look at some common distributor-based questions and their answers: 1.
Remove the bumper panels and the crash bar to enable easier access. In either instance the supplied voltage must be continuous. What causes spark loss issues with a distributor? The coil contains a primary winding, a slot iron core, and a secondary winding. If the battery does not have sufficient charge, it may still crank the engine over but fail to deliver a hot enough spark to start it. Well I must have a poor connection somewhere, I put a charger on it and with it still on, the bike would run, but intermittently lose all spark, and proceed to die. Replace the coil with a good quality new one, make sure you attach and tighten the leads correctly, plug in the top cable that goes to the distributor, turn the key and you should be good to go! Here's a video of how I got my old 1979 Yamaha MR 50 to run again by cleaning the points: #11: Damaged wiring. I vaguely remember being stuck long ago when the points were not properly grounded due to poor contact, and that may be a factor worth checking… if my more important chores today go quickly. To prevent this, the condenser acts like a path to ground. FIX: If the battery is lower than 12. Connect the tester (meter or bulb) from ground (engine case) to Terminal #15 on the coil.
When I am not getting spark from the coil. Rest the wire back on the plug to prepare for load testing. My original chrome ecu box and a new hirev 7500 ecu. Hope someone can help me out! A switch, or signaling device, triggers an interruption in the circuit. Another possibility is corrosion on the rotor, or the contacts in the distributor cap.
GM called it High Energy Ignition or HEI for short. The crankshaft position sensor tracks where the crankshaft is and how fast it's spinning. Once the voltage is stepped up, it goes to the secondary circuit which then directs the charge to the correct spark plug at the right time. E. If the joint to be repaired is grey in color or appears "Crumbled", apply some rosin soldering paste or flux to the joint with a small toothpick of screwdriver, and then apply the soldering iron tip for a few seconds. The computer handles the timing and any timing advance necessary for the smooth running of the engine.